News from the Hub
Greetings, and welcome to 2007! I have to confess that I cannot comprehend the speed with which 2006 passed us by. On one hand, it seems like last January is so far in the distance that I can’t recall it actually taking place, and on the other, the last three or four months of the year were such a frantic blur that I’m not convinced they actually happened, either. Maybe it’s time for a vacation, or at least an excursion to someplace where I can sit down, relax for a while, have a glass of wine and let someone else do the cooking.
And what do you know? Almost as if by magic there has appeared in our midst a restaurant the likes of which Olympia has never seen before. Imagine, if you will, a creative blending of Cajun/Creole style cuisine with Northwest seafood and seasonal ingredients, deftly prepared and handsomely presented. But wait, there’s more! The prices are reasonable! The staff are actually friendly! There are no squirrels in the ceiling! Well, actually, there may be a few, but they’re surprisingly discreet and well–behaved...
So, where is this place, and who’s in the kitchen? Located in the space where the old Ruby’s used to be, at the corner of 4th and Chestnut, you will find Cicada. Owned and operated by Billy Roberson and Lisa Smith, Cicada is quickly becoming a showcase for a style of cooking that is simultaneously down–home and provocatively innovative. What do I mean by that? How about fresh Alaskan sea scallops served with edamame risotto and fried fennel? Or pan–seared oysters on a bed of sauteLed jalapeno (without the seeds or pith, so you get all the flavor without the heat) with a nicely accented Remoulade sauce? Or a perfectly–cooked pork chop in an almond crust with white beans, chorizo, and cilantro pesto?
I think you get the picture. And it’s not just the evening meal that has people talking. Lunch is just as much fun, and the breakfasts are top–notch. In particular, the grits (which are actually made to order!) and the biscuits and gravy are outstanding, but I have yet to encounter any dish at Cicada that has not made me eager to return for more.
For special events, they are capable of working real magic – we recently hosted a modest gathering featuring a nine–course tasting menu that was simply delightful. Further, the ambience is relaxing, the wine list is heading in the right direction, and the staff are more than happy to accommodate any reasonable requests you may have. So –– please do yourself a big favor and visit Cicada: put yourself in their hands and I know you’ll be more than happy with the result. This is exactly the sort of new business that Olympia needs to support! Their phone number: 753–5700.
As always, thank you for supporting us this year. It has been an amazing journey, and we’re looking forward to an equally provocative and productive 2007. Take care, and we’ll see you on Sunday –
–Patrick and Andrea.
Tastings
Sunday, January 7, 2 – 4 p.m.: BEST BUYS!!! – While you’re recovering from holiday madness, check out this selection of great affordable wines from around the globe. Fee: $7.50.
Sunday, January 14, 2 – 4 p.m.: SOUTH AFRICA – Start the new year with an adventure through some of the tastiest reds and whites we’ve found in a long time! Fee: $ 7.50.
Sunday, January 21, 2 – 4 p.m.: AUSTRALIA – A fruit–filled romp through some of the best of Barossa, McLaren, et al. Fee: $ 7.50
Sunday, January 28, 2 – 4 p.m: VINS DE PAYS – The backbone of the evening meal throughout France, these are solid, earthy wines that sustain and refresh. Fee: $ 7.50.
Sunday, February 4, 2 – 4 p.m: SOUTHERN OREGON – If you think Oregon wine begins and ends with the Willamette valley, these great values from the Umpqua and Rogue valleys will open your eyes in a hurry! Fee: $ 7.50.
And Now For Something Completely Different!
Hello, –Does everyone have a New Year’s resolution? This year I have decided to participate and have come up with a resolution. I am going to branch out and try new things, take any stereotypes I may have and hopefully crush them. Especially when it comes to the wine world. This next year I will taste and write about wines I normally wouldn’t look at twice. It is time to become more open minded regarding the broader possibilities of wine. With that in mind...
2005 Francois Chidaine Les Argiles Vouvray @ $24.99 – I have this friend that adores great sweet wine, like Sauternes. Me? I adore a wine packed with minerality. It isn’t very often you find a wine that has both minerality and a beautiful touch of sweetness. Look no further, here it is. This 100% Chenin Blanc from the Loire region in France is one of the most intensely, beautifully aromatic wines I have ever had. On the nose there is chamomile honey, pear, white flowers and then brilliant minerality that continues in your mouth. Everything is fresh on your palate with notes of lemon zest, grapefruit, and quince. The mid–palate is to die for, silky, bright and intense. The finish has the most delicate touch of sweetness. Larrycwhere’s your glass?
2000 Chateau Marsau Prelude @ $9.99 – This 100% Merlot from Bordeaux is a ripe, fruit packed, powerful wine at an incredibly affordable price. Aromas of blackberry, black cherries and dark chocolate lead into a palate that has some serious weight to it, with flavors of plum, cassis, and a little bit of toast. It finishes strong, with fine tannins. This is one of many wines in the store that are perfect for everyday drinking.
2005 Domenico Clerico Dolcetto Langhe Visadi @ $17.99 – This is my wine pick of the month for people that want to sit down with some friends, good food and well, a sexy wine. From the Piedmont region in Italy, this 100% Dolcetto is an intensely deep, dark purple color. The nose is fine and elegant, featuring subtle notes of plum, eucalyptus and vanilla. The palate is velvety, with robust flavors of dark cherries, black currants, blackberries, and an intense long finish. This wine is amazingly balanced with its fruit, tannins and acidity. Truly a wine a wine for all of your senses.
I wish all of you a safe and joyful new year. Looking forward to seeing you in 2007!
–Andrea
NEW WINES
CALIFORNIA
2004 Ramey Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard ($59.99) – David Ramey is one of a handful of California winemakers that really, really, knows Chardonnay, and the proof is in this bottle: vivid pear, white peach, honeydew melon and citrus flavors accented by pretty floral and spice notes and solid minerality. The acid-fruit balance in this wine is actually one of its most appealing and dominant characteristics, keeping everything in focus as you work through the bottle. Tasty now, but built to handle up to 6 years in the cellar.
FRANCE
2004 Petit Chambord Cour-Cheverny ($13.99) – A rarity in the wine world, this succulent white from the Loire is made with 100% Romorantin, an old-timey grape that produces flavors of citrus curd, melon, and quince honey (yes, it is still a very dry white) with earthy mineral character and modest acidity. Lots of fun at a very modest price.
2005 Matrot Bourgogne Chardonnay ($16.99) – Get it while it’s hot! This great little unoaked Chardonnay is an excellent introduction to the basics of white Burgundy: bright, firm acids balanced with flavors of ripe apples and lemon, complicating notes of minerals and a crisp, clean finish. Superb wine with halibut or spicy seafood.
2004 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape (rouge) ($72.99) – From a fabulous vintage for the Rhone, this is the stuff of which legends are made: ripe, pungent aromatics of red raspberry and wild plum accented with elements of smoky rose, black olive, and Provencal herbs lead into a fat, ripe palate of rich red and black berries, plums, and kirsch. Notes of black pepper and baking spices linger on the long, impressive finish. Nice now, but really worth cellaring – this one will improve over the next ten to fourteen years!
GERMANY
2005 Leitz Riesling gDrachensteinh ($15.99) – From the Rheingau, this mineral-driven bottle of juice has aromas of fresh-cut apples and chamomile, with subtle notes of wildflowers that get vibrant and full on the palate. Really impressive and complex for a wine at this price.
ITALY
2004 Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino ($21.99) – From the producer of the #1 wine of the year, according to the Expectorator, this is hands-down one of the best Rosso we’ve seen in some time. Deeply colored, with dark cherry, loganberry, and currant flavors complimented by hints of anise, dark chocolate, and saddle leather. Decant for an hour or cellar up to 8 years.
2004 La Spinetta Barbera d’Asti gCa di Pianh ($21.99) – Every year when this wine is released, it gets great reviews and sells out in a matter of weeks. This vintage will not be the exception: it is textbook Barbera, with aromas and flavors of ripe blackberries, plums, and dark fruit compote that go on and on and on. Great smooth texture is accented by brisk acidity.
SPAIN
2004 Artadi Rioja gVinas de Gainh ($26.99) – 100% Tempranillo from vines that average 45 years in age, this is another cult favorite that only appears on the market for a short time. Full and firm, with concentrated red and black cherry flavors compounded by hints of dark berries, plum preserves, and nuances of mint and spice, this amply-endowed red has excellent length and balance. Decant for an hour, or cellar 4 to 6 years.
OREGON
2004 Cameron Chardonnay gClos Electriqueh ($49.99) – This wine gets my vote as the best Chardonnay made in the Pacific Northwest. Why? Two things: complexity and balance. The fruit is simply gorgeous, with myriad flavors of quince, yellow plum, lemon, pear and white peach wrapped around a core of lively acidity, with spice and brioche accents dancing around the edges. Approaching the style of good white Burgundy is rare for domestic Chardonnay, but this one pulls it off handsomely. Will continue to improve for 2 to 4 years.
WASHINGTON
New releases from Cadence!!!! If you’ve spent any time at all in the store, you know how highly I think of the wines of Ben Smith, owner and winemaker at Cadence. Stylistically, I find his wines to be far more nuanced, complex, and balanced than the vast majority of Bordeaux-styled blends made in the state, often with Cabernet Franc – driven aromatics that are simply captivating. Ben’s model for his style is based in large part on Chateau Cheval Blanc, and if you haven’t had any his wine, you really, really, should try a bottle or two. Having just been released, they need a little cellar time to round out, and will keep well for four to eight years.
2004 Cadence Klipsun Vineyard ($35.99) – 66% Merlot and 34% Cabernet Sauvignon. Lush and ripe, but quite structured, with pronounced cherry, cassis, and anise flavors.
2004 Cadence Tapteil Vineyard ($39.99) – 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. Maybe the most intriguing wine of the bunch, this is still quite unsettled, but the fruit shows great power, depth, and persistence.
2004 Cadence Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($39.99) – 39% Cabernet Franc, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 8% Petite Verdot. My personal favorite: I love the fruit and chocolate tones from the Cab Franc, while the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and dark fruit, the Merlot contributes warmth and rounded texture, and the PV gives some zing to the aromatics.
2004 Cadence Bel Canto ($52.99) – 50% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, 10% Petite Verdot. His top of the line red, as good a wine as you’ll find from Washington, period.
LARGE FORMAT WINES
Here’s a glimpse of what we have on hand. Also feel free to ask about older vintages of Bordeaux and rarities that may be lurking in the store.
| 1.5L | 2004 Ridge Lytton Springs | $ 75.99 |
| 1.5L | 2001 L’Ecole 41 Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon | $ 78.99 |
| 1.5L | 2003 Martinelli Zinfandel “Giuseppe & Luisa” | $ 99.99 |
| 1.5L | 2003 Dutton–Goldfield Pinot Noir “Devil’s Gulch” | $119.99 |
| 1.5L | 2000 Sinskey Pinot Noir “Four Vineyards” | $149.99 |
| 1.5L | 2001 Clerico Barolo “Ciabot Mentin Ginestra” | $169.99 |
| 1.5L | 2001 Fontodi Flaccianello | $206.99 |
| 1.5L | 1999 Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne | $239.99 |
| 3.0L | 2001 Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin | $249.99 |
| 3.0L | 1996 Prunotto Barolo Bussia | $289.99 |
| 3.0L | 2001 Paolo Scavino Barolo “Bric del Fiasc” | $399.99 |
CHEESES
Currently we have on hand:
Aged Provolone – Imported Italian ($11.99/lb) – Yes, it’s the real thing, not the waxy, flavorless junk passed off by so many stores and delicatessens as Provolone. Medium–sharp and intensely flavored, with real depth and complexity. A perfect match with some olives and a glass of Valpolicella, this is also a wonderful melting cheese and blends well with Ricotta and Parmesan in Tortellini or Calzone.
Beemsterkaas ($13.99/lb) – One of our most popular cheeses, this 24 month aged Gouda–styled cheese is absolutely packed with super–sharp, tangy flavor. It has a hard, crumbly texture and is an unbeatable match with fruity red wines.
Dorothea Coriander ($13.99/lb) – An excellent example of the Dutch tradition of fine cheeses lightly flavored with herbs and/or seeds, this mild goat–based Gouda is studded with Coriander seeds. It is creamy on the palate with lovely balance between the gentle goat flavors and the nutty overtones of the Coriander. Great with most medium–bodied whites and pinot–noir based Champagnes, as well as lighter reds.
Fromage d’Affinois ($14.99) A soft-ripened cow’s milk cheese from the Rhone-Alps region (near Briancon) -Fromage d'Affinois is a result of a special filtering process that produces a cheese that is like silk – so smooth and creamy that it is ethereal. For before or after dinner, it is delightful with ripe fruit. A perfect picnic cheese.
Manchego ($14.99/lb) – Everyone’s favorite Spanish sheep’s–milk cheese, mild and versatile (and perfect for melting on sandwiches or casseroles).
Mahon ($14.99/lb) A slightly aged cow’s milk cheese from Spain, with flavors similar to a good medium Cheddar – sweet/salt and nutty.
Morbier ($9.99/lb) – A washed–rind cow’s–milk cheese from the Jura, soft and mildly pungent with flavors of hazelnuts and crî´e fraiche. An excellent melting cheese.
Parmesano Reggiano ($13.99/lb) Crumbly, nutty/creamy flavored stuff to delight the palate.
Rogue Oregon Blue ($17.99) – Finally we got it! Firm and tasty, with delectable nuts-and-cream flavors and the sharp salt tang that only a blue-veined cheese will yield. Yum!
St. Andre ($14.99/lb) – A double–cream cow’s milk cheese with a delightfully rich, buttery flavor that everybody always gobbles up at our tastings.
OLIVES
Currently we have on hand:
Jumbo Calamata – Greece ($7.99/lb) – This is what Calamatas are supposed to taste like– ripe and plump, with dark intense flavors and a bright finish. These are the best of their kind we could find anywhere on the market.
Picholine – France ($4.99/lb) – An absolute steal at this price, these zesty green olives are a great compliment to a wide range of cheeses and cured meats, as well as a useful component in soups and stews (try them with slow–cooked braised pork or lamb).
Provencal Green Olives with Fennel – France ($8.99/lb) – Just what they sound like – fat and succulent with rich fennel and spice accents. Our best–seller.
Provencal Oil-cured Olives with Thyme | France ($5.99) – A big hit at our wine-tastings, these have a deep, dark intensity that only comes with oil-cured olives. Great with robust red wines and ripe cheeses.
Sicilian Mix | Italy ($5.99) – A blend of olives and red peppers cured with lemon and bay leaf, these have a nice gamey note that provides depth to their succulent character.
CLASSES
Classes will be held on weeknight evenings, usually on Tuesday and/or Thursday, beginning at 6:30 or 7:00 pm.
Most sessions will last one hour, although some will extend for 90 minutes. Fees will usually be $20 per person, although some specialized classes will cost a bit more if we’re opening pricier bottles or serving caviar.
Payment for each session will be prior to the session itself and will include all wines poured, materials, etc.
CLUBS
Just a reminder: on a monthly basis we’ll build a selection of wines to suit your palate and budget – give it a try, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
THE $120 CASE
Almost a relic from a bygone era, the notion of a mixed case of solid everyday wine for only ten bucks a bottle (including tax) used to be a staple at most wine specialty shops. These days, it’s a bit more of a challenge, but we think we can pull it off on a regular basis. Here’s how it works –
THE DEAL: Each month we’ll put together one or two bottles each of six different wines (red and white, unless you specify otherwise) for you to pick up at the store . If you like, an information sheet with a brief description of each wine will be included. This offer is only available via pre–enrollment on a quarterly basis, and pre–payment is preferred.
TURN IT UP: For those who want an enhanced selection with some stellar wines, we offer options of $150/case and $250/case, other terms as above.
THE MINIMALIST
An opportunity to get a limited number of pre–selected wines at a great price. In this scenario, we’ll select two different bottles for you each month for $25 (including tax). You may specify red or white or both. This offer is also only available via pre–enrollment on a quarterly basis, and pre–payment is preferred.
TURN IT UP: An enhanced version of the Minimalist, with options of $40/per two bottles or $60/per two bottles.